Sunday, June 29, 2008

June 29th...Back in Santiago

This morning Yvonne and I took a bus back to Santiago for the day. This evening we will take another bus to Oporto (airport), Portugal.

After arriving in Santiago around noon, we came straight to the Cathedral to see if any of our pilgrim friends were arriving. We saw several people we´ve formed a Pilgrim kind of bond with (the short life bond, you won´t see them again, but for awhile they were in your life). Life Is Good.

It seemed every narrow (2x4 mason laid stones) street we turned on there was someone else to hug, ask when they made it to Santiago, if their bodies were okay, more hugs and I would wish them Buen Viaje (Good Journey) then add...in your life. It´s been good today.

It´s now 5;:40 pm and soon (8:30 pm) we´ll be taking our last walk out of Santiago to the bus station. For me, it´s just for the moment...I´ll be back.

There is a web cam in front of the Cathedral for you to watch...Yvonne and I will stand in front of the web cam (our time: 8 PM)........your time (11 AM PDT).


http://www.caminosantiago.com/web/webcams.htm



We are wearing: Yvonne has on green pants, black top with a white cap. AriZona is wearing tan pants, black top with a blue cap.

We hope you can catch us. I Love All of You...AriZona signing off in Spain

Saturday, June 28, 2008

FINISTERRE...

Hola from one of my favorite places in the world! We took the bus into Finisterre, no time for walking the three days this time. Each journey is different, different stories. Each making Magical memories.

Yvonne went her separate way today, up to the lighthouse after we got our room. I went to the Atlantic Ocean first...¨The End of the World¨. Taking my boots off, tying the laces and hooking them over my shoulder and walked into the crystal blue ocean. The tide was coming in so the water was forceful with its waves and whitecaps. I thought I´d get wet up to my knees, in a moment I was soaked to my waist and laughing. It was Magical! I bought a coke and a little chocolate, sifting my feet through the sand after going in the water. Living With Passion! Wish I could have all of you here with me and share in the Atlantic and sand.

After I fed my soul one way I walked up to the Lighthouse, where I filled my soul again...The End of the World. I met a young woman from Australia who will turn 30 in ten days. She did all her personal purging (her house, boxes all packed), ready for new beginnings. While she was here, she was offered a new job. All things falling into place...New Beginnings.

Yvonne and I will spend the night here and then get on a bus in the morning back to Santiago, catching another bus to OPORTO, Portugal. We will fly from there to London (Stansted) where we will spend the night. Home on July 2nd!!!!!!! Woooooooooo Hoooooooooooo!!!!!!!

Oh my god, there is a guy singing with speakers sooooooo loud it hurts my ears! I have to go!!!!
I miss all of you. Thank You for all your support and love. All My Love...AriZona on the road in Finisterre, Spain

I met Yvonne as she was walking down. She had a good time she said.

Friday, June 27, 2008

Day 30...SANTIAGO

Hello Everyone...We´re here in Santiago!!!!

I can´t believe we are here! Our walking days are over...our feet and minds don´t know it yet, so I think there may be some withdrawal symptoms.

Today when we got our credencials, a man who was giving Yvonne hers asked, ¨How did you know when you would arrive?¨ She showed me her Pilgrim Passport and she wrote in June 27, 2008. I looked at mine...June 27, 2008! I remember the man asked us to fill it out in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port...30 days ago on May 27, 2008! We´ve seen an entire world in those 30 days. Rain, lots of rain! Mud, lots of mud! We loved every bit of it!

We left our Albergue this morning at 7:30 ish, later than I wanted, we had 22 km to get to Santiago before noon mass. We arrived inside the church at 11:58 am in true Camino fashion, hustling our butts through the streets of Santiago.

We still had lots of climbing to do today even though the elevation was lower. We walked through dirt paths, surrounded by eucalyptus forests with their distinct lengthy trunks and bark you can strip away, and then...there is the aroma. I love eucalyptus. We traveled on asphalt roads, not my favorite, it´s very hard on your feet and legs. The sky was very grey when we left this morning with a strong breeze. I´ve been walking quite some time now with my shorts, the pant portion tucked away in my pack and a sleeveless top. If we stopped we´d get shivers until we started walking again and work up a good sweat.

I felt a natural pull towards Santiago as once again I was in its presence. And knowing that mass was at noon...really gave me a push. Laughing, hustling, seeing the Pilgrim´s all rush towards the Cathedral is so much fun for me. It´s emotional, to know how far you´ve trekked across this country and at the same moment...it seems as though you´ve never done it.

Yvonne and I stepped into the Cathedral staying on the steps so we could have a good view of what was going on in the center with the priests honoring the Pilgrim´s, naming each country that was represented. It goes straight to your heart. Here were Yvonne and I, exhausted, standing with our packs on and trekking poles in hand for an hour...it was emotional for the Pilgrim´s. There were also many tourists inside the church, looking at us as they entered the church.

There was an older nun with the most beautiful singing voice that whisked me off into my childhood in the Catholic Church in Erie, PA. I was that little girl once again loving the angelic singing by the nuns in our parish.

After Mass, we walked outside, still high above ground when one by one, friends we´ve met on the Camino came up and said, ¨We wondered where you two were.¨ That´s the way it happens once you´ve arrived at the Cathedral, it´s the gathering place for the Pilgrim´s.

We found a nice little room next to the Cathedral, a favorite place of mine. Leaving our packs in the room we discovered how light we felt. We´ve never gone anywhere without our packs, at least not for long. Today, we felt lighter than a feather. I took Yvonne to my favorite little Italian (yes, Italian) Restaurant for Pasta. We both love pasta!

Afterwards, we came back to our room to take showers and have a little rest. It seemed as though my mind knew my body was finished walking the Camino. While Yvonne showered, I laid down curled up in a fetal position and dozed off. I was tired, we both were tired. We went out into the village area again so Yvonne could see some of the stores and then we made telephone calls to our sweethearts. Only a few more days and we´ll be home.

There was another joyful treat for me. In 2002, I was dancing under the archways with my japanese friends (Kaz & Yukko) to some wonderful Spanish music. After calling Marc, I went back to our room and Yvonne was sitting next door at the bar, drinking a cafe con leche and a large group of men with instruments and dressed in black & red capes, black stockings with black shoes, white shirts all drinking a few beers before starting their Entertainment for the night...Under the archways, just as in 2002!!!!! I´m sure it was different people, but the very same group! It is now 11:45 pm, they will play until midnight. I can hear them as I type and my feet are wanting to Dance. I must go to bed.

Tomorrow morning we will take the bus to Finisterre and dip our feet in the ocean. I will bury my feet in the warm sand and listen to the ocean waves, just as I have done before. Even though I won´t be walking the three days to reach Finisterre, this is my Camino. It wouldn´t be complete if I didn´t go to Finisterre. We will walk up to the Lighthouse and touch the last Camino marker.

Good Night to all my Family and Friends, I Love each and every one of you.

Living With Passion...AriZona, on the road in Spain (for the moment).

Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Day 30...Gonzar - Melide ( 33.1 km)

What can I say...another great day!

We left the Albergue earlier than usual, 6:50 am. We climbed steeping as soon as our feet hit the ground for 8 km.

We stopped for a bit of breakfast, a cola cao for me, a cafe con leche for Yvonne and toast for us both. During breakfast a 30ish woman entered the bar. She just woke up and was feeling a little guilty but happy. She told us her story. She´s been on the road to the Camino for four months starting in Holland. It was a dream of her father´s to do the Camino, but he died 10 years ago. She decided she wanted to do it for him. She could only take one year off from her job (not 6 months) and decided this was the time. She´s walked in snow and rain for much of her earlier days. She said she wanted to take her backpack on wheels but it was difficult on the mountain paths. It was an inspirational story. She called her mom and told her that she lit so many candles she felt like she lit a trail for her dad. Next thing she knew she had 52 e-mails because her mom spread the word. She told us she has orders not to arrive in Santiago until July 1st because there will be a surprise. She doesn´t think her mom will come because it is her birthday but believes her two nephews will be there. Bittersweet...

It will be down hill from here today. I started walking after our break with Madelon at 8:52 walking on the dirt path with the sun shining on my right shoulder and a morning breeze rushing up the mountain side. There were smells of fermenting Hay. The birds were singing wilding in unison.

Biking Pilgrim´s were speeding downhill on the asphalt road with glee. Buen Viaje! (Good Journey) I yell after them.

I heard roosters, bees, birds and cacadoodle do´s. It was quiet enough to hear the crunch of my boots on the dirt path. No more far away views now that we are in flatter land, only narrow winding roads.

10:08 am

Today we are being rewarded for all the hard climbs we´ve done. We are now crossing rolling hills on this third day before arriving in Santiago.

Thoughts pop in and out of my head like a road map of the world.

A little section of the road reminds me of a forest road at Armstrong Lake in Washington. Parts reminded me of Hansel and Gretal in our woodland path. Another area reminds me of Alice in Wonderland where she dropped down into the rabbits hole, tunneling down, down throught the forest just as I was.

I walk down the backs of boulders worn down from thousands of footsteps by thousands of Pilgrim´s. Cow pies dot the 3 ft. wide dirt path. The road down to Melide was one mostly under small dirt paths with trees curved into tunnels. I was delighted once again to go dancing down and down the paths until we were in Melide.

Tomorrow (Thursday, 26 June ´08) we travel from Melide to Arca, 30.1 km. I hope to have access to a computer tomorrow before we enter SANTIAGO on Friday. If not, we will walk from Arca - SANTIAGO 20.6 km and arrive before the Pilgrim´s Mass at the Church at Noon.

We are doing well. Many thoughts are swirling in our heads as we near the end of this journey only to begin another when we leave to go home.

With much Love to Everyone...We´ll be home soon. AriZona on the road in Spain.



Then slightly descending for another 7 km and back up and down again to Palas De Rei, where we bought some salami and cheese, a coke for me, wine for Yvonne and enjoyed a nice sidewalk lunch. Afterwards, we went inside the bar to check e-mails. I wasn´t able to check my e-mail last time and wanted to hear from my sweetheart, while Yvonne read her e-mails and replied. Se were both delighted.

Day 29...Barbadelo - Gonzar (26.8 km)

Another wonderful day walking up again in the mountains where we see stone barns, wood weathered barns, moss and wild flower covered stacked stone walls on either side of our dirt path 4 ft. high. Ivy wraps and slithers farther up and around the grand oak trees.

We walked in the mist once again, it is calming. Pastures divided by 3 ft. moss and lichen covered stacted rock walls, meandering the 4 ft. wide wet dirt paths and across the hills. Who stacked these rock walls? For miles they meander.

I had the pleasure to walk behind a young family (mom, dad, and their 10 or 11 yr. old daughter)who was holding hands with her mother and singing in French. She was dressed in a blue poncho, green pant legs showing underneath and teal tennis shoes. Her brown hair loosely flowing under her pink cap. She tap, tap, taps her one inch wooden stick on the asphalt road as she bubbily bounced away. She was delightful.

We stopped off in Portomorin for an hour or so. First crossing the Rio Miño (River) and then climbing the stairway where legend says you are a true Pilgrim is you climb the steep stairway. We climbed it with little effort with our new Camino strengthened bodies. I worked on the blog while Yvonne sipped some wine.

We left crossing the river once again and made our way to Gonzar. We first got a bed and then immediately went to eat dinner, we were famished. I had a large ensalada mixta (salad), french fries with thinly sliced fried chicken, and then...flan with whipped cream! Ooooh La La!

After our delicious dinner we went back to the nearly empty albergue to shower. When finished we needed to lay down. Soon there was some commotion as the beds were getting filled...a man (late 40´s or early 50´s) arrived carrying a small child and another close by wanting a bed. This was all spoken in Spanish so I didn´t quite understand what was going on. I thought someone had come to meet this man while he was there on the Camino and was visiting him. No. He was riding a bicycle and was towing a bike carrier for the two children, a little boy 1 yr old, and a little girl about 3. He had to be crazy to do the Camino with two small children. Several men didn´t want two small children in our Albergue because we were all very tired. A man pulled a mattress off a lower bunkbed and took it downstairs. Unbelievable! I don´t know what his reason is, but this was unbelievable to many pilgrim´s. It is hard enough to do it yourself, but then bring two small children. Who knows what his reasoning was.

Have a wonderful day. Living With Passion...AriZona on the road in Spain

Day 28...Triacastela - Gonzar

We left the Albergue in Triacastela at 8:30 am. We started climbing immediately into green glens and forest. Fog nestled in the tree tops and misted moistening the stoney dirt path. Babbling brooks near and far while the birds sang to us. There were a few late pilgrim´s...it was that kind of lazy morning.

Along the way, I came to one of my favorite little stone buildings. This time it was occupied by Art, a watercolor Artist who had bought and taken residency. He had mortered the outside making it look new once again, the inside was small and done with simple elegance. He invited us in to have a look. Yes, it was an artist´s studio. A simple double bed, a small french chair with metal legs and wooden seat sitting in front of an open window with wooden shutters opened to a grove of trees and a small stream below, a small creme colored couch, a wooden table across from the couch with two wooden chairs. Simple Elegance. There were several small openings through the walls where he painted and placed cut glass to insert in the small square openings. He is there now but will not stay in the winter, it is not necessary for him to stay as it is cold. He dreams of having a studio and sometime teach classes. It was a wonderful stop for us and especially for me since I have adored this little building during my past two walks on the Camino. He is Blessed.

We continued walking up on the dirt path where eventually it turned into asphalt and then back to dirt in the scattered fog. I enjoyed watching the fog come up and over the hillside crossing the road and up the next hillside.

I called this the Valley of Silence...of Nature.

We continued walking to Barbadelo where we hoped to find a bed for the night. Yvonne had gone ahead of me as I tended to some business and eating in Sarria. She arrived about 2 1/2 hrs. ahead of me. When I arrived I discovered because of the new influx of people arriving in Sarria that there were no beds available. The Hospataler mentioned to Yvonne that the house below may have some beds. We checked and they did, so all was well for the night.

Sarria is the town that people from Europe start in on their short 10 day vacations because it is the last place they can start (approx. 100 km) before Santiago to get their certificate. So, now we are competing for beds in our last days on the Camino.

Much Love to everyone...AriZona on the road in Spain

Three days ago in Triacatela

I forgot to mention just a tiny little story the night we stayed in Triacastela...Yvonne and I went into the little village to eat pasta. It turned out where we were sitting was in full view of all the pilgrim´s who were entering the village for the night and the one´s passing thru. We spent much of our time saying ¨Hello, we were wondering where you were¨ along with hugging and saying, ¨Buen Camino.¨

After all the visiting was done and we were headed back to our Albergue there were four little boys´(ages 8 & 9 maybe) who were playing soccer in the road where we needed to pass. I just mentioned to Yvonne, ¨I´d love to grab the ball away from them but I´m too tired.¨ I didn´t think she heard me because in the next second she said, ¨AriZona, grab the ball!¨ I was already laughing and grabbed the ball from one of the little boys´ before they knew what was happening. They too acted just as fast. We were all laughing trying to keep the ball away from each other. One of the little boys´ was sitting on a stoop and suddenly I grabbed the ball away from him as well. Tossing the ball above their heads while they kept their tosses below, they were clever. After a few minutes we said, ¨Adios.¨

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

Sunday, 22 June 08...11:21 am

About 9:30 pm last night I discovered a hot spot that I had been nursing since the beginning on the heel of my left foot had turned into a large blister. The fit of my new orthotics isn´t quite right. Now was not the time to discover this, nearing 10 pm. I searched out the cures of friends for their heel blisters. I had the needle and thread, I didn´t have a lighter to sterilize. No problem, I use hand signs for lighting a cigarette and my friend rummaged through his pack and handed me his lighter. Everyone has their own way of treating blisters. My young friend Tina needed to be seen by a Dr. So, I went to her for some advice. After discussing what I should do she gave me some paper tape and rolled it up small. I stuck my right pointer finger inside and finished talking. Soon my finger stuck. I couldn´t pull it out. I laughed. I then put my left pointer finger inside to pull the other free...oh no...chinese finger pull! I laughed so hard while trying to pull my fingers loose that I flopped backwards on the single bed. As I did my hat flew onto the floor. Now four of us were laughing very hard as I reached behind me and over my head with both hands in the chineses finer pull and tried to grab my hat! Luckily, there were no pilgrim´s sleeping in the room. When I finally sat up Tina unrolled the tape. We were still laughing. Soon I was headed back downstairs with my back pack, headlamp, bandages, tape, needle and thread, and betadine. Everyone was now tucked in their sleeping bags and fast asleep, while I was on the stairwell. I finished doctoring my blister and in bed to see a beautiful red orange sunset through our window when I rolled on my side @ 11:05 pm.

With all the caring advice I had no problems walking up another mountain range and down the other side today.

We started walking about 7:15 this morning. There were difficult climbs first thing this morning traveling with many pilgrim´s spread out and with one or two (10-15 min) breaks until we reached the summit. It was a long way down traveling from dirt path to asphalt then back to dirt paths mostly leading down.

I walked with Yvonnne until I came to a place where I had to zoom down the rocky dirt path once again as if skiing...only with backpack, boots & trekking poles and a big smile across my face with my ¨Happy Feet & Poles¨, dancing away!

Tonight we are in Triacastela, sunny when we arrived at 1pm...it´s now 7:50pm and dark clouds are forming above us, we are now in Galecia Province. From here to Santiage we will definitely encounter rain. We intednd to arrive in Santiago on Friday.

Tonight Pilgrim´s are heading to a bar to watch the European Football games (Soccer...Italy vs. Spain...Spain won.

It´s 9:18 pm, I´m ready for bed. Thanks to my roommmates for the night I didn´t have to handwash my very sweaty clothes.

Four days ago after leaving Rabanal Del Camino and leaving the Meseta (flat land) behind us, we are once again in the mountains. We stopped at La Cruz de Ferro. A simple iron cross stands atop its weathered pole has become and abiding symbopl of the Pilgrim way of St. James. Some Pilgrim´s bring a stone from their homeland or find a special one along the way to add to a great pile of stones from previous pirgrims´. The purpose is to reconnect with the purpose of your journey before placing your stone or other thoughts of love and blessings.

I placed a small white stone to represent the purity in all of us. May everyone touch upon this place of peace within and then reach out to another and pass it along.

Going through my notes of the past few days I of a troff (sp?) irrigation system. I watched the water run through this way and then another until reaching the tender young plants waiting for their nourishment, giving them life. What gives you life?

I need to get on my way. We are on our 28th day and will be stopping in Gonzar for the night. New pilgrims are entering the Camino, making less room for the pilgrims already walking. We had a little trouble last night, but easily found a bed at someone´s home who is trying to turn their space into an Albergue but don´t have a license yet.

Yvonne I´m sure is anxious to get back on the road, since she isn´t on the computer. I must run. I Love You All...AriZona on the road in Spain

Day 25...O´Cebreiro

Hola! Having several days to cover in a half hour because I found a good computer in Portomarin and still have a few hours of walking yet.

I´ll begin in O´Cebreiro (June 21, 2008; 4:33 pm)

On this night in O´Cebreiro Iñve have another experience...Bagpiping and drumming in this quaint Celtic Village high in the mountains. On one side of the villiage I can see all the mountain ranges we walked thus far. Tomorrow we will walk all the mountain ranges facing us on ¨the other side¨.¨ In this village both sides are visible. I don´t know how I´m containing myself writing when the rythmn of the music is calling. So many languages being spoken in this little bar. I need to learn Spanish! I miss out on so much!

The Camino to me is Cultural, enjoying the villages and differences, people from around the world enjoying the social aspects of visiting each day and night. During the trekking part, pilgrims limp, sweat, walk slowly, some fast, some sad, more happy. It´s a Universal language...A Smile says it all.

Getting away on a long Pilgrimage takes one away from all daily distraction. Quieting your mind to hear what is going on inside. Don´t be afraid to hear what message are waiting for you. Do you already hear or know something you are not paying attention to? What is calling you? Listen...listen again...your psyche is telling you something. Most of us have such busy lives that our inner needs are tossed aside...until, one day something inside of us starts screaming. Do you already hear this voice that you may be shutting out because of responsiblities? In order to be peaceful within, and on the inside you must ACT on whatever your message might be. Take baby steps if necessary...but, take ACTION. You can have it all. Be the person you really want to be. If you are already that person maybe something else is vying for your attention. Listen.

It´s been a long hard day, our 25th day on the Camino. We are on the downside, seven more days until we reach Santiago. It´s all going to go fast now. Some people are thinking about all the people they´ll leave behind. We don´t leave them behind, we just go to different places and hopefully the essence of the people who are dear to us will be there when needed. They never go away. Like any friendship, it has to be cultivated.

Here inside the new renovated Albergue on the Mountain top in O´Cebreiro where I´m sitting on a top bunk observing. Couples are wanting alone time, whispers, touching, bunk beds, moving; older people going through their guide books for tomorrow´s journey; some are sleeping, snoring, writing in journals, packing and reorganizing their packs, bags rustling, velcro being pulled apart, cold showers with surprised yelps, people wandering about just outside our grownd level windows, people bandaging their blister, bringing in their laundry from outside...it is only 9:05 pm and bright daylight.

With all the sunshine sleep is the last thing on everyone´s mind. We need to be in bed by 10 pm, doors get locked, no rummaging about in the village. People have already had all the food and drink (wine or beer) for the night. More rustling of bags and backpacks. There are some who are careful with noise but the majority are not.

During check-in womething new has been added, we were given papery sheets and pillow cases...like the slippers you might get at the airport, or like Dr.´s and Nurses wear over their shoes. This being my 3rd time doing the Camino I have never seen this. They are disposable so no washing and drying sheets is necessary, nor the people who have to do these chores. Spain has very little waste, napkins are thin like cigarette papers.

We paid 3 euros (€) at this municipal Albergue, with the costs of these coverings I hope our costs don´t start escalating. We Pilgrim´s can spend up to 20€ a day. Private Albergues are popping up everywhere, charging 6-8€ a night. Most are offering dinner for 9€, then breakfast of bread and drink, another 3€. It´s not cheap to walk the Camino if you eat out everyday, much like home. But we Pilgrim´s are often so tired the last thing we want to do is carry extra food during the day to cook after showering and then handwashing and then hanging out our clothes to dry.

It´s 9:22 pm and I´m really tired. The room is starting to fill up for the night Sweet Dreams...Buen Camino.

Monday, June 23, 2008

In Sarria...but moving on June 23, 2008

Hello everyone- I thought i could write my blog on this old metal keyboard but I have to much to write and it is very difficult. I have to wait so please be patient. Tonight we are going beyond Sarria...the day is early and the weather is not hot.

We are doing well. All My Love....AriZona on the road in España

Saturday, June 21, 2008

Bagpiping

It looks like part of another blog didn´t publish. I´m signing off to be in the moment.

Livng With Passion...Life Is Good...Having Fun after a long day´s journey!

Buen Camino to everyone! I Love You All...AriZona

O´Cebreiro

The man just came over to me and seranaded me and a man who was singing out a beat. Now the place is coming alive with people hearing the music and stopping in. O´Cebreiro is very Celtic. Amazing the pub is now full!!!! Wish you were here. I might be tired, but never tired for music or dancing. Now, the man who was singing a beat is now playing the bagpipe and the man who was originally playing is now drumming!! You never know what Magic will occur at any moment of the day, even if you are extremely tired.

Now, I´m being serranaded by the drummer after telling him I am writing about them! So much excitement! I wish you could hear this...they are standing next to me...another man is picking up a larger drum! Wow, I wish you could be here!!!!

Just finished dancing with the original man and now I must leave you to have a bit of fun!

I Love You All...AriZona

Day 25...Villafranca del Bierzo - O´Cebreiro

After having a long sleepless and very hot night I arrived in O´Cebreiro at 4:33 pm. Yvonne and I were separated early in the day arriving at different times. It was a very hard walk today going from 600m to 1300m...(feet?). Basically flat for a while, then a climb from 600m to 1000m, descending to 600m again on the other side, then gradually climbling from 600m/705m/920m/1150m to O´Cebreiro at 1300m! Not bad for a day´s climb, but I´ll you everyone is tired. There was a new Albergue for us to use. In 2007 it was closed for renovating (which I´ve heard usually means bed bugs).

Again in God´s country. I will post new photos on my website when I get home.

At this very moment, I´m choked up because there is a man playing a Bagpipe in our pub! I´ll be right back...cont´d

Love AriZona

Friday, June 20, 2008

Day 24...Moliniseca to Villafranca del Bierzo

Today we passed through God´s country...Azure sky, the greenest vineyards, trees blowing in the slight breeze, walking on a dirt path, apple trees, bird´s singing, a who who bird sang, sounds in the weeds like a rattlesnake, all making this hard day immensley pleasurable.

In 2002, a little old man approached me from Bierzo Winery offering me some wine...we did the same today and had a little tinto vino for our walk.

We had a long hot day...about 80 degrees with humidity and now are very tired. I´ve got to get back to my bed and get a good nights sleep.

Sorry this is short but I wanted to catch up a little before I forget. Love to all, AriZona

Day 23...Rabanal del Camino

HOLA...Buenos Tardes!



Yesterday we arrived in Rabanal del Camino, a wonderful village tucked in the mountains. We arrived early in the day as we only walked 23.4 km. Arriving early allows some rest after your household chores. When I do my laundry by hand it takes me about an hour...I use this time as meditation time. Each piece of clothing is dripping wet, I then take my towel and put one article in and then roll it up, and wring the excess water, taking less time to dry.



We both were able to get lower bunks this night making it easier to get up during the night to use the bathroom and not disturb anyone. I forgot to take my headlamp with me making me one bed off...I didn´t know if it was my bed so I slipped my hand under the edge of the pillow where my book was and discovered...no, it was my bed. I touched a large watch without distrubing the person sleeping. So, I went one row over touching under the corner of the pillow where my book was and quietly slid into my sleeping bag. It was a warm night so I didn´t need much warmth.



In 2002, I was without a sleeping bag because I carelessly shipped it forward to Santiago by the advice of a hospataler (sp?) and not listening to my intuition. My pack was an incredible 40 lbs without water (another 6.3 lbs) and my body was failing me climbing all the mountain ranges, different roads (asphalt, rocks, dirt, mud), you get the picture...so to get rid of the weight I shipped my rain gear and sleeping bag (never, ever do this while on the Camino!) and several other items to lighten my load and heal my swollen knee and painful groin area. Losing the weight did help...what it did not help was the rain and freezing temps I experienced when I didn´t keep the items I so carefully chose for my trek. Always listen to your inner guide, Always!

In Rabanal del Camino we stayed at a wonderful Albergue. Passing through two large wooden doors that were already open into a wonderful and inviting courtyard where Pilgrim´s from many countries were already drinking, eating and sharing stories from their days´ journey and possibly their life. It was a happy and welcoming atmosphere.

After doing my household chores I found a place in the Pilgrim´s kitchen to heat water for a cup of tea. Trying to light a 2 burner propane stove with a tiny lighter on a stove unfamiliar to me was more challenging than lighting our gas BBQ! I was not quick enough to turn the handle to ignite...instead the gas built up causing the burner to blow up! I immediately shut it off and had to start over several times, finally using the small burner (no kaboom) which took longer to heat but fine with me.

While waiting for my water to boil I looked around room, stone walls covered with pictures of Pilgrim´s from years past...Comradery (sp?) and happy faces in every picture. Sitting at a 16 ft. wooden table and pew like benches. The floor was also stone for easy cleaning from dirt and muddy shoes.

While drinking my tea two young german boys Benny & Lars (19 or 20) come into the kitchen wanting to cook their packaged pasta. I warned them of the burner & they wanted nothing to do with it. Smiling, I take the lighter and tell them I will do this only once and once again...kaboom!

The room was no longer quite with now three speaking german and I was wanting solitude. I went outside and found a sunny spot on a bench against a stone wall where I closed my eyes and listened to all the languages being spoken until I couldn´t discern any language. I smiled and felt very peaceful and fell asleep for a few minutes.

Yvonne and I ordered pasta and ensalata mixta (salad, veggies and tuna). There was too much food for us to finish. We offered the same two german boys our pasta which they were happy for and then Yvonne ordered another pasta dish for them since it seemed to her they might be on a budget. They very much appreciated the gesture and later while I was sleeping and Yvonne out and about they laid a bottle of red wine on her bed with a note.

We saw them awhile later and they asked if we had drank the win...no, we haven´t. We really didn´t want any wine but felt obligated that night since we did not want to carry a bottle of wine the next day. We shared the bottle and had many laughs and bonding moments. We haven´t seen the boys´ since the next morning walking to Moliniseca. They were very sweet.

Other Pilgrim´s noticed us sitting in a darkened corner and motioned to us that we needed to go to bed. Giggling until we laid our heads on the pillow. What a great day and night!

I´m tired so I hope all this makes sense. Love to all...AriZona

Monday, June 16, 2008

20th & 21st Day....Sahagun - Leon - Pepe´s at Mazarife

We had an interesting walk day before yesterday...I don´t have my calendar with me so you´ll have to improvise.

As I mentioned I love taking the off the beaten road. Upon entering Sahagun two days ago I thought it was odd that there were barriers around the roads to the Albergue known to me to keep the bulls running in a certain path. A man was photographing Yvonne & I as we entered town. He told us at 6pm the Bulls would run through the town and then to the Bull fighting ring. I was so excited and told Yvonne we should think about staying and enjoy Spain and its culture. What a surprise to encounter another ¨Running of the Bulls¨ on the Camino. Only in 2002 did I discover the ¨Running of the Bulls¨in Los Arcos and had a marvelous time with all my Camino friends.

Yvonne & I at the time decided it would be fun so we went to get some Pasta and maybe a beer for me & wine for Yvonne. We didn´t get the pasta but settled for a microwave pizza instead...along with my 2 beers (I don´t like beer, but on the Camino it tastes good once in awhile), and Yvonne had two glasses of wine.

It wasn´t long before the decision became clear we should move on farther on the Camino. So, we left Sahagun and traveled to another village which I don´t know the name of at the moment. We traveled 17km on a different path which was way out in nature. A very long dirt road that slightly undulated up and down now and then. We were still traveling on the Meseta.

I hope all of you have seen the movie ¨Home
Alone¨. If you haven´t you might miss the story.

Our walk was in grey clouds, golden soil, mountains in the NE, Pine trees standing aligned for (wood) down the road...Solitude...just you, the land, the breeze and the road (asphalt). For a part of the distance I felt as if I were in the Bridger Mountains, near Bozeman, MT (I hope this memory is correct).

At 3:50 pm we crossed a bridge over the electric train tracks. Two trains had already passed as we were walking towards the bridge. While standing on top of the bridge I heard a quiet, strange sound. I looked, and coming toward us was a very long electric train. As the train came closer my little kid came out to play once again...I waved my arms wildly so the conductor would honk his horn. He Did! He did as soon as he saw me, and continued honking as he went underneath the bridge. I was fully in the moment...I grabbed the rail to feel the vibrations from the train and soon I was yelling...AAAAAAAAHHHHHHH!!!! I looked over towards Yvonne and she was also yelling...AAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHH!!!! We saw each other at the same time, started laughing, and yelled..........AAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!! even more. This all happened as a train of maybe thirty cars moved beneath us. It was exhilerating!!!! We carried the scene on for several kilometers. What a HOOT!!!!

We were in Leon for just one evening, arriving later in the day and finding a place to stay, then eat.

We left Leon about 7:30 am this morning heading to Pepe´s in Mazirife. I love Pepe´s and send all my special friends to Pepe´s. Pepe makes the best ¨Vegetarian Paella¨in the whole world! And in the morning he will make (Chuppa´s...a sweet bread).

I have thought of eating Pepe´s Paella since starting the Camino again this month.

I had the honor of helping Pepe prepare the entire meal for all the Pilgrims´! I was in heaven once again...all day. It took several hours to cut and prepare all the veggies, preparing the sauce...and, writing the recipe with Pepe´s approval!!!! Oh my Gosh!!!! How lucky can one Pilgrim be!!!! I´ve had more hugs again today to last me a lifetime. I even got to hold the youngest Pilgrim I have ever seen...Estella, 8 months old. Pictures to follow when I get home.

Well, this Pilgrim has a long walk tomorrow, 30 km to Astorga. I think Marc published our schedule so everyone will have an idea of our whereabouts.

It´s now 10:33 pm, Pepe and two fellow Pilgrims´(and my new friends, Estella is their 8 mth old daughter) are visiting and I´m getting very tired.

My clothes have all been hand washed and blown dry in the hard and cold wind. But, the smell of my clothes...is fresh.

Good night to all my wonderful friends and family...thank you for the comments, I love hearing from all of you. I will be home July 1st. Would love to have some sort of get together, since I always say I´m going to and don´t. It will have to wait until I return from Montana later in the month. Maybe, if I get the courage...I´ll make Pepe´s Paella!

Sweet Dreams...Living With Passion...Life IS Good...Having Fun, XOXOXOOXO AriZona on the road in Spain

Friday, June 13, 2008

Day 19 Terradillos de los Templarios-Calzadilla de los Hermanillos

Good Morning Everyone!

Staying at off the beaten paths where most every pilgrim goes (main villiages and albergues) I´m often without a computer or cannot get on. I always prefer the off the beaten path...it´s where you find the magic.

On our 11th & 12th days dehydration had caught up with me because of a little known ¨Camino Swoosh¨...because of the language differences sign language is often used in this case........The Pilgrim bends forward (just a little) at the waist, then they take their fingers pointing upward towards their butt and with force and thrust their hand in a downward fashion towards the ground...SWOOSH...diarreah (sp?)! That´s how I got dehydrated. I´m doing better and knew I was well when my Happy Face and Spirit returned! Wooooooooo Hoooooooo!

In London on our way to France we met two adorable little girls...Chloe 10 & Darci 5 yrs. old who have been e-mailing me. I am now an official penpal to Chloe.

On Day 16 we stayed at one of my favorite albergue´s...St Nicojas. It is the Albergue that doesn´t have electricity only lit by candlelight. The Hospatalero´s were exciting beyond words. I was overwhelmed sitting at the head or end of a very long wooden table watching all the Pilgrim´s toast and eat dinner together. I was facing the Altar looking at the window at the far end of the room.

After our Foot Cleansing Ceremony Pilgrims´gathered around the table and outside to enjoy the blue sky and windy evening. Inside was a different story...Here I knelt between three Italian men singing Italian songs. One (Alberto) was a Gondolier in an earlier life and how he met his wife (Elvia) was singing to his hearts core. Then, Josepi and Giovani followed in sync. Their voices inside that little church was incredible and I found myself singing even though I didn´t know the words along with them...my arms around their shoulders, swaying this way and that, and then moving to Alberto giving him a hug as well. Oh my! My heart was overflowing with love once again!

Arriving early gave me a chance to wash every single item of clothing I had with me and watching it blow in the wind reminding me my childhood days when I helped mom hang clothes to dry. More wonderful memories.

Yesterday, I felt as mellow as the breeze blowing towards us across the wheat fields.

The farmers were out cutting in their wheat fields yesterday. We saw maybe an acre of lettuce and the rest of our view was wheat fields. We walked 17kms on a straight dirt road...the same where Nicole and I encountered our Englishmen in the jeep and giving us a short 3 min ride. More memories.

I stopped to see my friend Eduard arBoadilla del Camino where I was wonderfully greeted with a great big hug and ÄriZona, Hello!¨ He had a new computer and got rid of the one I had great difficulty with. Gracias my friend Eduardo.

Well we must get on the road. We will walk 26kms to Calzadilla de los Hemrmanillos. The day is cold and windy. We have been blessed with cool weather in the middle of June.

Yesterday we found out we will have another adventure. Marc (my Husband), found cheap tickets for us to fly to London. After the Camino we will be heading to OPORTO, Portugal where we will fly to London Stansted. Woooooooooo Hooooooooo!!!!! Another Adventure even if for a day.

Well, until another day and another place, Ciao my friends and family. Today will be more flat land. We will have another five days of flat land and then once again we will start climbing.

I forgot to add, two days ago Yvonne and I both fell flat on the concrete with our heavy packs slamming us into the ground. I was walking on the cotton from the cotton trees and enjoying the softness beneath my feet when...slam! I was on the ground...hidden was an uplifted piece of concrete. I didn´t get any bruises and was just fine. Yvonne, a few hours later...took a step on a sloping curb and in one swoop as her foot hit the ground her entire body went forward without any warning, also with her pack slamming her forward! Her left eyebrow immediately started swelling and before bedtime she was getting a big, black eye. Today, she has more color around her eye but says she feels okay. Caution: watch out for the backpacks of the Pilgrims´...they are hazardous to your health!

Buen Camino...I Love You All...AriZona

Friday, June 6, 2008

Day 8 Logrono/ Day 9 Ventosa/ Day 10 Canas

Day 8 Los Arcos-Logrono

Hello everyone! We are still walking in rain and loving every minute of it! Soon, the sun will come and it will be hot.

On the way to Logrono today I had to stop in Viana to have lunch (where Nicole and I had this wonderful dinner) and I had this wonderful lunch once again. Several of our friends also stopped by and it became a very special meal. A lunch filled with emotional and spiritual connections.

With our friend Jean-Louis we talked about the three kinds of Love: Eros, Philos and Agape.
I was overwhelmed with the love of friends and mankind during this meal. Earlier this day we walked near a river where once again it was overflowing...Just as my heart was overflowing with love of the simplicity of friendship. Friendship is so important to value, we must not waist a moment gathering and sharing the love from those closest to us. I was so full of love that it carried my feet all day. Thank you my dear friends here and at home.

We stayed in the church in Logrono because the Albergue was full. Another wonderful evening. The Priest and a volunteer (Angel) created an atmosphere of generosity and love and laughter. Some of the pilgrim´s cooked the food that was gathered amongst them and then we ate at a long wooden table with good food, wine and more friendship. Before the meal there was a Chinese male who was cutting a man´s hair and asked if I wanted mine cut, oh no, thank you I said. He said I think, Just a little; no, no thank you and we laugh.

After dinner it became apparent that no one knew why this chinese man was at the albergue. The unfolding was hilarious. He spoke Chinese, the Spanish, germans, english, french were all trying to understand...no one could figure out who he was. We thought he was a volunteer, no. He wasn´t a Pilgrim...who was this masked hair stylist? This went on for more than an hour when the Priest finally pointed a finger for the Chinese man to follow him. I saw this while helping with dishes in the kitchen. I felt like I was in 3-5th grades in Catholic school when a nun or priest would point a finger to have someone follow them. I couldn´t stop laughing. It ended with The Chinese man being able to spend one night here and then he had to leave. I didn´t see him again.

Day 9 / Ventosa

Yvonne & I took a different road today that called to me. Not surprisingly, I found a jewel. A new albergue opened 2 months ago run by Enrique and Jutte. This will definitely be in my travels each time I come. Thank you Enrique and Jutte and all the pilgrims.

Day 10/ June 5, 2008 / Canas

Today we ventured far off the beaten path...the route of the monasteries. We stayed at the Cistercian abbey of Santa Maria founded in 1170. Sadly, most of the nuns who occupied this abbey have died and we encountered Mary Carmen and Padre Felix who so graciously let us sleep in a small tiled room...no beds...it was interesting, he didn´t want us to leave this little room for fear of someone seeing us since it felt we shouldn´t be there. We entered this room at 7:30 pm, daylight until nearly 10 pm and didn´t leave until he thought we had left this morning at 7 am when he opened our wooden door. He was such a sweetheart. We found time to do some long needed journaling and contemplating. Who had walked on these floors? What words had been spoken? Apparently Saint Francis of Assisi stayed here while journeying to Santiago. We felt honored to be here. Thank Padre and Mary Carmen.

On Days 9 & 10 we walked among rolling hills of grape vineyards. It made me think of Seasons of Change...Spring brings new growth. The stalk of the vine has a sturdy base, making me think of families needing sturdy bases. It´s never too late to form the base if it was not given in the first place. I thank our children for giving their children the strong bases for them to grow into loving and caring people, allowing them to stronly follow their own hearts and paths. I love each of you and my wonderful husband, Marc who gives everyone the base they need to continue their own paths. ILY My Sweet, Sweet Man.

Day 11/ June 11, 2008/ headed somewhere for another 15-20kms?

I leave you with these words:

To laugh is to risk appearing a fool
to weep is to risk being called sentimental
to reach out to another is to risk involvement
to expose feelings is to risk exposing your true self
to place your ideas and dreams before a crowd is to risk their loss
to love is to risk not being loved in return
to live is to risk dying
to try is to risk failure
but risks must be taken
because the greatest hazard in life is to risk nothing.
the people who risk nothing may avoid suffering and sorrow,
but they cannot learn, feel, change, grow or really live.
chained by their servitude they are slaves who have forfeited all freedom.
only a person who risks is truly free.

Monday, June 2, 2008

Days 4, 5, 6 & 7

Day 4 (29 May 08)

Roncesvalles - Larasoanna

It has rained each day since starting in St-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France. With lots of mud, our days are slow and of course...mostly uphill, today our elevation is 2,296 feet. The mud was very wet, so it didn´t stack under our boots with each step.

We left Roncesvalles, Spain (first village in the Pyrenees crossing into Spain) about 8:30 am. We had breakfast in Burguet 3.2 km from Roncesvalles, cola cao (hot chocolate) & croissant. It rained hard all day, luckily we have good boots, rain gear and rain cover for our back pack. We are loving the rain even though it slows us down. We are always laughing!

About 2 pm we were in the village of Viskarret and ate a big lunch to have energy to keep walking. The rain gave us a break and we ate outside, laughing with all our new friends...from Germany, Switzerland, 2 boys Matt & Ian from Georgia, Brazil, Italy, Paris, Scotland, Ireland, Canada, Mexico, Korea, Chicago & Austria. Many, many people from Germany. All of us laughing as one by one we walked in to the village, clapping that we are seeing them once again. Yvonne & I yell (Wooooo Hooooo!) as they walk towards us and then lots of hugs and kisses.

After and hour we walked to LARASOANNA our destination for the night. The main Albergue was full so there was another building for overflow. We were upstairs with most of our friends. After settling in we did our household chores: wash clothes, hang them, showers and then eat. The showering was interesting...It was like a small metal construction office with 4 shower stalls, one very long pole for shower curtains and a thin metal wall between each section. When I walked in I thought I was in the men´s section when a young guy was standing there buck naked. I saw, and said, oops, I must be in the wrong area...I hear, ¨No, you´re not¨. I laughed, okay. This tiny stall was so small I couldn´t move, let alone take off my clothes. Yvonne was standing just outside holding my thin plastic shower curtain closed because the open door was blowing the air in. We were both laughing and laughing...can you imagine that? Two showers away was our friend, Jean-Louise from Brazil...making gorilla sounds, while I am making my own gorilla sounds with the cold water...together we made beautiful gorilla sounds....ooooo, ooooo, ahhhh, ahhhhh, oooooo, oooooo...everyone was laughing. Then I had to get dressed, yes, again this was very funny.

Okay, now it is Yvonne´s turn...she decided to take a shower with her clothes on and wash them...very interesting sounds also, oh I am washing my vonder bra...rub a dub, I say to her. More laughing. At least she was creative.

Later, we had dinner with all our friends and there is where we became the Woooooo Hoooooo Women!!!!!

Day 5 ( 30 May 08) Larasoanna - Pamplona

Again the day was filled with hard rain and very cold night. We stayed in an Albergue that once was a church. It had all the ammenities of home, good private showers, washers, dryers: these could have been improved upon as each load had its troubles. Washers stopping in mid cycle, needing to be rinsed out by hand and then wringing out. The dryers cost about 6 euros because the time kept shutting off every few minutes.

We had a very good nights sleep.

People are now waiting for the computer so I must be quick, there is only one computer.

Day 6 (31 May 08) Pamplona to Obanos

It rained hard all day, more mud but it did not hamper out spirits in any way. Yvonne & I had plenty to laugh about along the way.

We stopped at Eunate...A Romanesque Church built in the 12th Centuary. The Legend says Pilgrims are buried there. It is a circular church. Before going into the church you must remove your boots and then start walking around 3 times inside the church while looking at the floor. Then you turn the opposite way and walk another 3 turns while looking at the walls. Go the opposite direction again 3 times while looking at the ceiling. All of this is supposed to give you great energy to continue walking the Camino.

Raining hard, we continued to Obanos. We tried to walk further to Puenta La Reina but had to stop because we were too tired and way too giddy! There were five of us, three women and two men singing in the rain! Of course, Laughing.

I believe everything happens for a reason. Because we chose to go 5 km out of our way, we stayed in a different place. But the magic was that the next morning we arrived in Puenta la Reina to have breakfast, staying about two hours.

While sitting there, I could see people gathering outside in the rain, singing? I had to go see what was happening. There were men and women singing in spanish, but I couldn´t understand but I joined in anyhow. Swaying this way and that, and humming to their wonderful instruments.

We said good-bye to some friends then Yvonne & I continued on. Their were about 10- 12 groups of people singing, about 20-30 people in each group and they were taking turns walking around Puenta La Reina. I was overwhelmed. It turned out this was a ceremony for the Pilgrim´s which happened once a year but in different villages around the Navarra region.

People held my hands, smiled and lots of hugs and kisses...and Buen Camino´s (Well Wishes). Soon, many pilgrims joined in all the celebration.

After leaving Puenta La Reina it was raining so hard the river was overflowing in many places. My Heart felt as full as the River.

We had much rain yesterday and much more mud. I had an interesting moment or 5 minutes...I took a step then another and found I could not remove either foot...They were suctioned down tight. When I tried moving either foot, I lost my balance and fell on my right side splashing into the thick, rich mud! Okay, guess what I was doing...LAUGHING, LAUGHING! I must have laughed for miles. It really was funny and you didn´t have to be there. Somewhere I found some muddy water and washed off as best I could. We now reached Estella.

Day 7 (1 June 08) Estella

We reached Estella about 6:30, very late and didn´t have much time to do our chores. Luckily there was a good washer and dryer so we had clean clothes for today. It was too late to finish drying out clothes so they were left to the gods to dry for the morning.

We had three young spanish men invite Yvonne & I for spaghetti...we joined them and cleaned all the dishes in return. Another wonderful night.

Day 8 (2 June 08) We are now in Los Arcos. Our laundry is finished as we arrived in good time today, by 2:30 in the afternoon. We´ve had time to eat, write and visit with many friends. We had another wonderful day trekking through Spain´s country side.

Tomorrow we are going to Logrono. Good Night to All...I Love Everyone of you...Special hugs and Kisses to my Sweet. Sweet Man, Marc ILY.














Day 5 (31 May 08)
Pamplona to Obanose - What a wonderful Albergue we stayed at last night in Pamplona, all the ammenities of home...good private