Friday, June 20, 2008

Day 24...Moliniseca to Villafranca del Bierzo

Today we passed through God´s country...Azure sky, the greenest vineyards, trees blowing in the slight breeze, walking on a dirt path, apple trees, bird´s singing, a who who bird sang, sounds in the weeds like a rattlesnake, all making this hard day immensley pleasurable.

In 2002, a little old man approached me from Bierzo Winery offering me some wine...we did the same today and had a little tinto vino for our walk.

We had a long hot day...about 80 degrees with humidity and now are very tired. I´ve got to get back to my bed and get a good nights sleep.

Sorry this is short but I wanted to catch up a little before I forget. Love to all, AriZona

Day 23...Rabanal del Camino

HOLA...Buenos Tardes!



Yesterday we arrived in Rabanal del Camino, a wonderful village tucked in the mountains. We arrived early in the day as we only walked 23.4 km. Arriving early allows some rest after your household chores. When I do my laundry by hand it takes me about an hour...I use this time as meditation time. Each piece of clothing is dripping wet, I then take my towel and put one article in and then roll it up, and wring the excess water, taking less time to dry.



We both were able to get lower bunks this night making it easier to get up during the night to use the bathroom and not disturb anyone. I forgot to take my headlamp with me making me one bed off...I didn´t know if it was my bed so I slipped my hand under the edge of the pillow where my book was and discovered...no, it was my bed. I touched a large watch without distrubing the person sleeping. So, I went one row over touching under the corner of the pillow where my book was and quietly slid into my sleeping bag. It was a warm night so I didn´t need much warmth.



In 2002, I was without a sleeping bag because I carelessly shipped it forward to Santiago by the advice of a hospataler (sp?) and not listening to my intuition. My pack was an incredible 40 lbs without water (another 6.3 lbs) and my body was failing me climbing all the mountain ranges, different roads (asphalt, rocks, dirt, mud), you get the picture...so to get rid of the weight I shipped my rain gear and sleeping bag (never, ever do this while on the Camino!) and several other items to lighten my load and heal my swollen knee and painful groin area. Losing the weight did help...what it did not help was the rain and freezing temps I experienced when I didn´t keep the items I so carefully chose for my trek. Always listen to your inner guide, Always!

In Rabanal del Camino we stayed at a wonderful Albergue. Passing through two large wooden doors that were already open into a wonderful and inviting courtyard where Pilgrim´s from many countries were already drinking, eating and sharing stories from their days´ journey and possibly their life. It was a happy and welcoming atmosphere.

After doing my household chores I found a place in the Pilgrim´s kitchen to heat water for a cup of tea. Trying to light a 2 burner propane stove with a tiny lighter on a stove unfamiliar to me was more challenging than lighting our gas BBQ! I was not quick enough to turn the handle to ignite...instead the gas built up causing the burner to blow up! I immediately shut it off and had to start over several times, finally using the small burner (no kaboom) which took longer to heat but fine with me.

While waiting for my water to boil I looked around room, stone walls covered with pictures of Pilgrim´s from years past...Comradery (sp?) and happy faces in every picture. Sitting at a 16 ft. wooden table and pew like benches. The floor was also stone for easy cleaning from dirt and muddy shoes.

While drinking my tea two young german boys Benny & Lars (19 or 20) come into the kitchen wanting to cook their packaged pasta. I warned them of the burner & they wanted nothing to do with it. Smiling, I take the lighter and tell them I will do this only once and once again...kaboom!

The room was no longer quite with now three speaking german and I was wanting solitude. I went outside and found a sunny spot on a bench against a stone wall where I closed my eyes and listened to all the languages being spoken until I couldn´t discern any language. I smiled and felt very peaceful and fell asleep for a few minutes.

Yvonne and I ordered pasta and ensalata mixta (salad, veggies and tuna). There was too much food for us to finish. We offered the same two german boys our pasta which they were happy for and then Yvonne ordered another pasta dish for them since it seemed to her they might be on a budget. They very much appreciated the gesture and later while I was sleeping and Yvonne out and about they laid a bottle of red wine on her bed with a note.

We saw them awhile later and they asked if we had drank the win...no, we haven´t. We really didn´t want any wine but felt obligated that night since we did not want to carry a bottle of wine the next day. We shared the bottle and had many laughs and bonding moments. We haven´t seen the boys´ since the next morning walking to Moliniseca. They were very sweet.

Other Pilgrim´s noticed us sitting in a darkened corner and motioned to us that we needed to go to bed. Giggling until we laid our heads on the pillow. What a great day and night!

I´m tired so I hope all this makes sense. Love to all...AriZona

Monday, June 16, 2008

20th & 21st Day....Sahagun - Leon - Pepe´s at Mazarife

We had an interesting walk day before yesterday...I don´t have my calendar with me so you´ll have to improvise.

As I mentioned I love taking the off the beaten road. Upon entering Sahagun two days ago I thought it was odd that there were barriers around the roads to the Albergue known to me to keep the bulls running in a certain path. A man was photographing Yvonne & I as we entered town. He told us at 6pm the Bulls would run through the town and then to the Bull fighting ring. I was so excited and told Yvonne we should think about staying and enjoy Spain and its culture. What a surprise to encounter another ¨Running of the Bulls¨ on the Camino. Only in 2002 did I discover the ¨Running of the Bulls¨in Los Arcos and had a marvelous time with all my Camino friends.

Yvonne & I at the time decided it would be fun so we went to get some Pasta and maybe a beer for me & wine for Yvonne. We didn´t get the pasta but settled for a microwave pizza instead...along with my 2 beers (I don´t like beer, but on the Camino it tastes good once in awhile), and Yvonne had two glasses of wine.

It wasn´t long before the decision became clear we should move on farther on the Camino. So, we left Sahagun and traveled to another village which I don´t know the name of at the moment. We traveled 17km on a different path which was way out in nature. A very long dirt road that slightly undulated up and down now and then. We were still traveling on the Meseta.

I hope all of you have seen the movie ¨Home
Alone¨. If you haven´t you might miss the story.

Our walk was in grey clouds, golden soil, mountains in the NE, Pine trees standing aligned for (wood) down the road...Solitude...just you, the land, the breeze and the road (asphalt). For a part of the distance I felt as if I were in the Bridger Mountains, near Bozeman, MT (I hope this memory is correct).

At 3:50 pm we crossed a bridge over the electric train tracks. Two trains had already passed as we were walking towards the bridge. While standing on top of the bridge I heard a quiet, strange sound. I looked, and coming toward us was a very long electric train. As the train came closer my little kid came out to play once again...I waved my arms wildly so the conductor would honk his horn. He Did! He did as soon as he saw me, and continued honking as he went underneath the bridge. I was fully in the moment...I grabbed the rail to feel the vibrations from the train and soon I was yelling...AAAAAAAAHHHHHHH!!!! I looked over towards Yvonne and she was also yelling...AAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHH!!!! We saw each other at the same time, started laughing, and yelled..........AAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!! even more. This all happened as a train of maybe thirty cars moved beneath us. It was exhilerating!!!! We carried the scene on for several kilometers. What a HOOT!!!!

We were in Leon for just one evening, arriving later in the day and finding a place to stay, then eat.

We left Leon about 7:30 am this morning heading to Pepe´s in Mazirife. I love Pepe´s and send all my special friends to Pepe´s. Pepe makes the best ¨Vegetarian Paella¨in the whole world! And in the morning he will make (Chuppa´s...a sweet bread).

I have thought of eating Pepe´s Paella since starting the Camino again this month.

I had the honor of helping Pepe prepare the entire meal for all the Pilgrims´! I was in heaven once again...all day. It took several hours to cut and prepare all the veggies, preparing the sauce...and, writing the recipe with Pepe´s approval!!!! Oh my Gosh!!!! How lucky can one Pilgrim be!!!! I´ve had more hugs again today to last me a lifetime. I even got to hold the youngest Pilgrim I have ever seen...Estella, 8 months old. Pictures to follow when I get home.

Well, this Pilgrim has a long walk tomorrow, 30 km to Astorga. I think Marc published our schedule so everyone will have an idea of our whereabouts.

It´s now 10:33 pm, Pepe and two fellow Pilgrims´(and my new friends, Estella is their 8 mth old daughter) are visiting and I´m getting very tired.

My clothes have all been hand washed and blown dry in the hard and cold wind. But, the smell of my clothes...is fresh.

Good night to all my wonderful friends and family...thank you for the comments, I love hearing from all of you. I will be home July 1st. Would love to have some sort of get together, since I always say I´m going to and don´t. It will have to wait until I return from Montana later in the month. Maybe, if I get the courage...I´ll make Pepe´s Paella!

Sweet Dreams...Living With Passion...Life IS Good...Having Fun, XOXOXOOXO AriZona on the road in Spain

Friday, June 13, 2008

Day 19 Terradillos de los Templarios-Calzadilla de los Hermanillos

Good Morning Everyone!

Staying at off the beaten paths where most every pilgrim goes (main villiages and albergues) I´m often without a computer or cannot get on. I always prefer the off the beaten path...it´s where you find the magic.

On our 11th & 12th days dehydration had caught up with me because of a little known ¨Camino Swoosh¨...because of the language differences sign language is often used in this case........The Pilgrim bends forward (just a little) at the waist, then they take their fingers pointing upward towards their butt and with force and thrust their hand in a downward fashion towards the ground...SWOOSH...diarreah (sp?)! That´s how I got dehydrated. I´m doing better and knew I was well when my Happy Face and Spirit returned! Wooooooooo Hoooooooo!

In London on our way to France we met two adorable little girls...Chloe 10 & Darci 5 yrs. old who have been e-mailing me. I am now an official penpal to Chloe.

On Day 16 we stayed at one of my favorite albergue´s...St Nicojas. It is the Albergue that doesn´t have electricity only lit by candlelight. The Hospatalero´s were exciting beyond words. I was overwhelmed sitting at the head or end of a very long wooden table watching all the Pilgrim´s toast and eat dinner together. I was facing the Altar looking at the window at the far end of the room.

After our Foot Cleansing Ceremony Pilgrims´gathered around the table and outside to enjoy the blue sky and windy evening. Inside was a different story...Here I knelt between three Italian men singing Italian songs. One (Alberto) was a Gondolier in an earlier life and how he met his wife (Elvia) was singing to his hearts core. Then, Josepi and Giovani followed in sync. Their voices inside that little church was incredible and I found myself singing even though I didn´t know the words along with them...my arms around their shoulders, swaying this way and that, and then moving to Alberto giving him a hug as well. Oh my! My heart was overflowing with love once again!

Arriving early gave me a chance to wash every single item of clothing I had with me and watching it blow in the wind reminding me my childhood days when I helped mom hang clothes to dry. More wonderful memories.

Yesterday, I felt as mellow as the breeze blowing towards us across the wheat fields.

The farmers were out cutting in their wheat fields yesterday. We saw maybe an acre of lettuce and the rest of our view was wheat fields. We walked 17kms on a straight dirt road...the same where Nicole and I encountered our Englishmen in the jeep and giving us a short 3 min ride. More memories.

I stopped to see my friend Eduard arBoadilla del Camino where I was wonderfully greeted with a great big hug and ÄriZona, Hello!¨ He had a new computer and got rid of the one I had great difficulty with. Gracias my friend Eduardo.

Well we must get on the road. We will walk 26kms to Calzadilla de los Hemrmanillos. The day is cold and windy. We have been blessed with cool weather in the middle of June.

Yesterday we found out we will have another adventure. Marc (my Husband), found cheap tickets for us to fly to London. After the Camino we will be heading to OPORTO, Portugal where we will fly to London Stansted. Woooooooooo Hooooooooo!!!!! Another Adventure even if for a day.

Well, until another day and another place, Ciao my friends and family. Today will be more flat land. We will have another five days of flat land and then once again we will start climbing.

I forgot to add, two days ago Yvonne and I both fell flat on the concrete with our heavy packs slamming us into the ground. I was walking on the cotton from the cotton trees and enjoying the softness beneath my feet when...slam! I was on the ground...hidden was an uplifted piece of concrete. I didn´t get any bruises and was just fine. Yvonne, a few hours later...took a step on a sloping curb and in one swoop as her foot hit the ground her entire body went forward without any warning, also with her pack slamming her forward! Her left eyebrow immediately started swelling and before bedtime she was getting a big, black eye. Today, she has more color around her eye but says she feels okay. Caution: watch out for the backpacks of the Pilgrims´...they are hazardous to your health!

Buen Camino...I Love You All...AriZona

Friday, June 6, 2008

Day 8 Logrono/ Day 9 Ventosa/ Day 10 Canas

Day 8 Los Arcos-Logrono

Hello everyone! We are still walking in rain and loving every minute of it! Soon, the sun will come and it will be hot.

On the way to Logrono today I had to stop in Viana to have lunch (where Nicole and I had this wonderful dinner) and I had this wonderful lunch once again. Several of our friends also stopped by and it became a very special meal. A lunch filled with emotional and spiritual connections.

With our friend Jean-Louis we talked about the three kinds of Love: Eros, Philos and Agape.
I was overwhelmed with the love of friends and mankind during this meal. Earlier this day we walked near a river where once again it was overflowing...Just as my heart was overflowing with love of the simplicity of friendship. Friendship is so important to value, we must not waist a moment gathering and sharing the love from those closest to us. I was so full of love that it carried my feet all day. Thank you my dear friends here and at home.

We stayed in the church in Logrono because the Albergue was full. Another wonderful evening. The Priest and a volunteer (Angel) created an atmosphere of generosity and love and laughter. Some of the pilgrim´s cooked the food that was gathered amongst them and then we ate at a long wooden table with good food, wine and more friendship. Before the meal there was a Chinese male who was cutting a man´s hair and asked if I wanted mine cut, oh no, thank you I said. He said I think, Just a little; no, no thank you and we laugh.

After dinner it became apparent that no one knew why this chinese man was at the albergue. The unfolding was hilarious. He spoke Chinese, the Spanish, germans, english, french were all trying to understand...no one could figure out who he was. We thought he was a volunteer, no. He wasn´t a Pilgrim...who was this masked hair stylist? This went on for more than an hour when the Priest finally pointed a finger for the Chinese man to follow him. I saw this while helping with dishes in the kitchen. I felt like I was in 3-5th grades in Catholic school when a nun or priest would point a finger to have someone follow them. I couldn´t stop laughing. It ended with The Chinese man being able to spend one night here and then he had to leave. I didn´t see him again.

Day 9 / Ventosa

Yvonne & I took a different road today that called to me. Not surprisingly, I found a jewel. A new albergue opened 2 months ago run by Enrique and Jutte. This will definitely be in my travels each time I come. Thank you Enrique and Jutte and all the pilgrims.

Day 10/ June 5, 2008 / Canas

Today we ventured far off the beaten path...the route of the monasteries. We stayed at the Cistercian abbey of Santa Maria founded in 1170. Sadly, most of the nuns who occupied this abbey have died and we encountered Mary Carmen and Padre Felix who so graciously let us sleep in a small tiled room...no beds...it was interesting, he didn´t want us to leave this little room for fear of someone seeing us since it felt we shouldn´t be there. We entered this room at 7:30 pm, daylight until nearly 10 pm and didn´t leave until he thought we had left this morning at 7 am when he opened our wooden door. He was such a sweetheart. We found time to do some long needed journaling and contemplating. Who had walked on these floors? What words had been spoken? Apparently Saint Francis of Assisi stayed here while journeying to Santiago. We felt honored to be here. Thank Padre and Mary Carmen.

On Days 9 & 10 we walked among rolling hills of grape vineyards. It made me think of Seasons of Change...Spring brings new growth. The stalk of the vine has a sturdy base, making me think of families needing sturdy bases. It´s never too late to form the base if it was not given in the first place. I thank our children for giving their children the strong bases for them to grow into loving and caring people, allowing them to stronly follow their own hearts and paths. I love each of you and my wonderful husband, Marc who gives everyone the base they need to continue their own paths. ILY My Sweet, Sweet Man.

Day 11/ June 11, 2008/ headed somewhere for another 15-20kms?

I leave you with these words:

To laugh is to risk appearing a fool
to weep is to risk being called sentimental
to reach out to another is to risk involvement
to expose feelings is to risk exposing your true self
to place your ideas and dreams before a crowd is to risk their loss
to love is to risk not being loved in return
to live is to risk dying
to try is to risk failure
but risks must be taken
because the greatest hazard in life is to risk nothing.
the people who risk nothing may avoid suffering and sorrow,
but they cannot learn, feel, change, grow or really live.
chained by their servitude they are slaves who have forfeited all freedom.
only a person who risks is truly free.

Monday, June 2, 2008

Days 4, 5, 6 & 7

Day 4 (29 May 08)

Roncesvalles - Larasoanna

It has rained each day since starting in St-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France. With lots of mud, our days are slow and of course...mostly uphill, today our elevation is 2,296 feet. The mud was very wet, so it didn´t stack under our boots with each step.

We left Roncesvalles, Spain (first village in the Pyrenees crossing into Spain) about 8:30 am. We had breakfast in Burguet 3.2 km from Roncesvalles, cola cao (hot chocolate) & croissant. It rained hard all day, luckily we have good boots, rain gear and rain cover for our back pack. We are loving the rain even though it slows us down. We are always laughing!

About 2 pm we were in the village of Viskarret and ate a big lunch to have energy to keep walking. The rain gave us a break and we ate outside, laughing with all our new friends...from Germany, Switzerland, 2 boys Matt & Ian from Georgia, Brazil, Italy, Paris, Scotland, Ireland, Canada, Mexico, Korea, Chicago & Austria. Many, many people from Germany. All of us laughing as one by one we walked in to the village, clapping that we are seeing them once again. Yvonne & I yell (Wooooo Hooooo!) as they walk towards us and then lots of hugs and kisses.

After and hour we walked to LARASOANNA our destination for the night. The main Albergue was full so there was another building for overflow. We were upstairs with most of our friends. After settling in we did our household chores: wash clothes, hang them, showers and then eat. The showering was interesting...It was like a small metal construction office with 4 shower stalls, one very long pole for shower curtains and a thin metal wall between each section. When I walked in I thought I was in the men´s section when a young guy was standing there buck naked. I saw, and said, oops, I must be in the wrong area...I hear, ¨No, you´re not¨. I laughed, okay. This tiny stall was so small I couldn´t move, let alone take off my clothes. Yvonne was standing just outside holding my thin plastic shower curtain closed because the open door was blowing the air in. We were both laughing and laughing...can you imagine that? Two showers away was our friend, Jean-Louise from Brazil...making gorilla sounds, while I am making my own gorilla sounds with the cold water...together we made beautiful gorilla sounds....ooooo, ooooo, ahhhh, ahhhhh, oooooo, oooooo...everyone was laughing. Then I had to get dressed, yes, again this was very funny.

Okay, now it is Yvonne´s turn...she decided to take a shower with her clothes on and wash them...very interesting sounds also, oh I am washing my vonder bra...rub a dub, I say to her. More laughing. At least she was creative.

Later, we had dinner with all our friends and there is where we became the Woooooo Hoooooo Women!!!!!

Day 5 ( 30 May 08) Larasoanna - Pamplona

Again the day was filled with hard rain and very cold night. We stayed in an Albergue that once was a church. It had all the ammenities of home, good private showers, washers, dryers: these could have been improved upon as each load had its troubles. Washers stopping in mid cycle, needing to be rinsed out by hand and then wringing out. The dryers cost about 6 euros because the time kept shutting off every few minutes.

We had a very good nights sleep.

People are now waiting for the computer so I must be quick, there is only one computer.

Day 6 (31 May 08) Pamplona to Obanos

It rained hard all day, more mud but it did not hamper out spirits in any way. Yvonne & I had plenty to laugh about along the way.

We stopped at Eunate...A Romanesque Church built in the 12th Centuary. The Legend says Pilgrims are buried there. It is a circular church. Before going into the church you must remove your boots and then start walking around 3 times inside the church while looking at the floor. Then you turn the opposite way and walk another 3 turns while looking at the walls. Go the opposite direction again 3 times while looking at the ceiling. All of this is supposed to give you great energy to continue walking the Camino.

Raining hard, we continued to Obanos. We tried to walk further to Puenta La Reina but had to stop because we were too tired and way too giddy! There were five of us, three women and two men singing in the rain! Of course, Laughing.

I believe everything happens for a reason. Because we chose to go 5 km out of our way, we stayed in a different place. But the magic was that the next morning we arrived in Puenta la Reina to have breakfast, staying about two hours.

While sitting there, I could see people gathering outside in the rain, singing? I had to go see what was happening. There were men and women singing in spanish, but I couldn´t understand but I joined in anyhow. Swaying this way and that, and humming to their wonderful instruments.

We said good-bye to some friends then Yvonne & I continued on. Their were about 10- 12 groups of people singing, about 20-30 people in each group and they were taking turns walking around Puenta La Reina. I was overwhelmed. It turned out this was a ceremony for the Pilgrim´s which happened once a year but in different villages around the Navarra region.

People held my hands, smiled and lots of hugs and kisses...and Buen Camino´s (Well Wishes). Soon, many pilgrims joined in all the celebration.

After leaving Puenta La Reina it was raining so hard the river was overflowing in many places. My Heart felt as full as the River.

We had much rain yesterday and much more mud. I had an interesting moment or 5 minutes...I took a step then another and found I could not remove either foot...They were suctioned down tight. When I tried moving either foot, I lost my balance and fell on my right side splashing into the thick, rich mud! Okay, guess what I was doing...LAUGHING, LAUGHING! I must have laughed for miles. It really was funny and you didn´t have to be there. Somewhere I found some muddy water and washed off as best I could. We now reached Estella.

Day 7 (1 June 08) Estella

We reached Estella about 6:30, very late and didn´t have much time to do our chores. Luckily there was a good washer and dryer so we had clean clothes for today. It was too late to finish drying out clothes so they were left to the gods to dry for the morning.

We had three young spanish men invite Yvonne & I for spaghetti...we joined them and cleaned all the dishes in return. Another wonderful night.

Day 8 (2 June 08) We are now in Los Arcos. Our laundry is finished as we arrived in good time today, by 2:30 in the afternoon. We´ve had time to eat, write and visit with many friends. We had another wonderful day trekking through Spain´s country side.

Tomorrow we are going to Logrono. Good Night to All...I Love Everyone of you...Special hugs and Kisses to my Sweet. Sweet Man, Marc ILY.














Day 5 (31 May 08)
Pamplona to Obanose - What a wonderful Albergue we stayed at last night in Pamplona, all the ammenities of home...good private